There are many different styles and types of dog cages on the market and as expected there is also a huge range of prices.
While you might find people opposed to the suggestion of using dog cages, it is in actual fact something that most dogs are comfortable with.
Dog cages can offer your dog a sense of security, much like a child has a security blanket. By having their own little area they have a sense of security and this security can go with them if there is a need to travel.
If they feel safe within their dog cage they are less likely to become stressed when traveling in a motor vehicle.
By adding a favorite blanket or padding to the dog cage, the animal will feel comfortable and happy in familiar surroundings.
When buying a dog cage it needs to be big enough to allow your dog to stand up and turn around, but doesn't need to be any larger than that for the dog to feel comfortable. There will need to be enough room for the dog to lie down on it's side with it's legs outstretched and sleep comfortably.
Usually the biggest problem will be whether your motor vehicle is big enough to fit the dog cage inside, in a safe place.
You can expect to pay between $50 and $125 for a good quality dog cage that will be big enough for a medium to large dog.
It is a small price to pay for all the benefits of dog happiness and security, along with ease of transportation. A good quality dog cage should last the life of the animal if handled correctly, which makes it a relatively cheap investment.
The cage should be purchased based on the size of the full grown animal as you won't want to be replacing it after a year or so when you find that it is too small to house your pet when it is fully grown.
Some dog cages have dividers that are useful when transporting puppies as they restrict the area of the cage that they have access to, and as they grow the divider can be removed so they can use the whole cage.
When deciding on a dog cage you should look at all the alternatives that are offered by the biggest pet retailers on the Internet and look at all the price comparison websites to get the best deals.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Designer Cat Collars : Give Style To Your Cat!
Designer cat collars come in all forms from floral, gem-stoned, personalized to even leather. Every cats different and had a personality all their own. Why should they look like all the other ones? Decide what type of personality your cat has or even what you want your cat to have and get her a designer cat collar today.
Dorothy Bauer creates beautiful designer cat collars all by hand, making sure each piece will fit the cat it will belong too. Most of the collars are made from Swarovski Austrian Crystal in a variety of colors making each piece stand out on its own. Imagine your cat walking around in a 3 stranded collar made of crystals. If you can’t picture that try a choker with her first initial, simple and elegant. Not only does she design collars for your cat but she provides beautiful charms to be attached to them. The prices range from $25 on up. If you like her creations for your dog you might even like it for yourself, that’s right she makes jewelry for the human-kind too.
Hand-sewn designer cat collar with Swarovski pearls and rhinestones will make your cat look like she’s going out on a date and it’s perfect for Valentine’s day. Colors range from pink, black to red with little roses sewn onto the collar, rhinestones wrap around the neckline between the flowers adding to it’s romantic look. Personalized designer cat collars are becoming a big hit, get your cat’s name in rhinestones so she can proudly wear it around her neck.
Lulu’s leather cat collars are sleek and make your cat look smashing. These designer cat collars are one thin, leather strap with a small bell near the clasp. Each collar comes with a few different holes to make the collar fit to perfection and each one is made of high quality material. You’ll be able to hear your cat coming with this designer cat collar. Find out which designer cat collar will look good on your feline, you won’t be sorry.
Dorothy Bauer creates beautiful designer cat collars all by hand, making sure each piece will fit the cat it will belong too. Most of the collars are made from Swarovski Austrian Crystal in a variety of colors making each piece stand out on its own. Imagine your cat walking around in a 3 stranded collar made of crystals. If you can’t picture that try a choker with her first initial, simple and elegant. Not only does she design collars for your cat but she provides beautiful charms to be attached to them. The prices range from $25 on up. If you like her creations for your dog you might even like it for yourself, that’s right she makes jewelry for the human-kind too.
Hand-sewn designer cat collar with Swarovski pearls and rhinestones will make your cat look like she’s going out on a date and it’s perfect for Valentine’s day. Colors range from pink, black to red with little roses sewn onto the collar, rhinestones wrap around the neckline between the flowers adding to it’s romantic look. Personalized designer cat collars are becoming a big hit, get your cat’s name in rhinestones so she can proudly wear it around her neck.
Lulu’s leather cat collars are sleek and make your cat look smashing. These designer cat collars are one thin, leather strap with a small bell near the clasp. Each collar comes with a few different holes to make the collar fit to perfection and each one is made of high quality material. You’ll be able to hear your cat coming with this designer cat collar. Find out which designer cat collar will look good on your feline, you won’t be sorry.
Clicks Instead Of 'Good Boy' For Dog Training
The first major improvement in dog training since choke chains and spiked collars, click and treat has quickly establishing itself in becoming a big hit in the world of dog training. Currently, there are over 10,000 trainers who are using this training method everyday.
One advantage to using this form of training at home is it’s easy to learn for both the dog and his trainer!
Originally used to train marine mammals, click and treat breaks down the process into two separate steps, information and motivation. The click is the information, the treat is the motivation. While other trainers still work on these two steps, they try to teach them all at once, which can confuse the animal and slow down results.
Most trainers will verbally praise a dog for good behavior, while at the same time motivating the dog to repeat his actions. This can be a good method, however it takes longer for the dog to understand which behaviors and actions caused the praise from the trainer.
With the click and treat method, the processes are easily taught. In normal training, a person would say “good boy” when a welcomed action occurs and proceed with giving a treat. The clicker becomes a substitute for verbal praise and can actually catch the “good boy” behavior quicker than saying it, letting the dog know exactly which behavior he is being rewarded for.
Another way to look at click and treat training is viewing it as a secondary reinforcement, while food, water, physical affection and play (things the dog wants) become primary reinforcement. When you take a dog for a walk, the leash works as a secondary reinforcement. It is obvious to the dog that the leash is not taking him for a walk; the owner is, however, it triggers a reaction in the dog, telling him that the leash will let him know where he will go and where he will not. And if he reacts to the leash with good behavior, his reward will be a nice leisurely walk.
Click and treat works the same way. When a dog hears the clicker, he will know that he performed a good behavior and as long as he keeps hearing a click, there is a treat coming his way. So, the clicker works as a secondary reinforcement, teaching him boundaries and appropriate behavior.
A couple advantages of the click and treat method include;
1) Faster response than verbal praise. The clicker can identify the exact behavior at the time it happens.
2) It takes the place of treats. While motivating the dog to hear clicks, it will also teach him to work without the expectations of having treats given to him each time he does something good.
3) If the trainer is working at a distance from the dog, the clicker will still work, without having to be right next him.
Are you ready to try clicker training?
The first thing you’ll need to do is go to your favorite pet supply store and invest in a clicker. The clicker is nothing fancy and should just cost you under five dollars. While you’re there grab some pocket treats, little bits of dried liver work well.
A good method to use when getting started with click and treat is to stand in front of the animal. Click the clicker and give a treat. Continue doing this for 20-30 minutes, or until the dog becomes startled by the sound of the click. This will familiarize him to the clicking sound, while teaching him that every time he hears it, he has done something good. After he gets the hang of it, begin by adding commands, such as “sit” and “stay.”
Click and treat has proven to be a simple, yet consistent training method with quick results. So for the trainers out there who are looking for a new and innovative way to motivate and praise their animals, get out there, buy a clicker and... click!
One advantage to using this form of training at home is it’s easy to learn for both the dog and his trainer!
Originally used to train marine mammals, click and treat breaks down the process into two separate steps, information and motivation. The click is the information, the treat is the motivation. While other trainers still work on these two steps, they try to teach them all at once, which can confuse the animal and slow down results.
Most trainers will verbally praise a dog for good behavior, while at the same time motivating the dog to repeat his actions. This can be a good method, however it takes longer for the dog to understand which behaviors and actions caused the praise from the trainer.
With the click and treat method, the processes are easily taught. In normal training, a person would say “good boy” when a welcomed action occurs and proceed with giving a treat. The clicker becomes a substitute for verbal praise and can actually catch the “good boy” behavior quicker than saying it, letting the dog know exactly which behavior he is being rewarded for.
Another way to look at click and treat training is viewing it as a secondary reinforcement, while food, water, physical affection and play (things the dog wants) become primary reinforcement. When you take a dog for a walk, the leash works as a secondary reinforcement. It is obvious to the dog that the leash is not taking him for a walk; the owner is, however, it triggers a reaction in the dog, telling him that the leash will let him know where he will go and where he will not. And if he reacts to the leash with good behavior, his reward will be a nice leisurely walk.
Click and treat works the same way. When a dog hears the clicker, he will know that he performed a good behavior and as long as he keeps hearing a click, there is a treat coming his way. So, the clicker works as a secondary reinforcement, teaching him boundaries and appropriate behavior.
A couple advantages of the click and treat method include;
1) Faster response than verbal praise. The clicker can identify the exact behavior at the time it happens.
2) It takes the place of treats. While motivating the dog to hear clicks, it will also teach him to work without the expectations of having treats given to him each time he does something good.
3) If the trainer is working at a distance from the dog, the clicker will still work, without having to be right next him.
Are you ready to try clicker training?
The first thing you’ll need to do is go to your favorite pet supply store and invest in a clicker. The clicker is nothing fancy and should just cost you under five dollars. While you’re there grab some pocket treats, little bits of dried liver work well.
A good method to use when getting started with click and treat is to stand in front of the animal. Click the clicker and give a treat. Continue doing this for 20-30 minutes, or until the dog becomes startled by the sound of the click. This will familiarize him to the clicking sound, while teaching him that every time he hears it, he has done something good. After he gets the hang of it, begin by adding commands, such as “sit” and “stay.”
Click and treat has proven to be a simple, yet consistent training method with quick results. So for the trainers out there who are looking for a new and innovative way to motivate and praise their animals, get out there, buy a clicker and... click!
Kids' Calcium Consumption Is Key Concern For Parents
Parents play a key role in ensuring their children meet the daily requirements of calcium intake, according to a recent report from the American Academy of Pediatrics.
The report also states that most children and adolescents are at risk for bone fractures and osteoporosis later in life due to low calcium consumption when they're young. Three servings of low-fat milk, cheese or yogurt, or up to 1,300 milligrams of calcium depending on age, are recommended each day to build strong bones.
"Parents and caregivers often know the importance of calcium, but aren't sure how to incorporate it into their child's diet," said Andrea Garen, a registered dietitian at Dairy Council of California. "Since dairy foods provide 70 percent of calcium in the Western diet, finding ways to include more dairy can make a difference in a child's long-term wellness and bone health."
Garen's suggestions include:
• Find ways to work more dairy into the diet: Offer a child yogurt or cereal with low-fat milk for breakfast, and string cheese and flavored milk as a snack.
• Serve as a child's role model: If good nutrition is important to parents, it will also be important to their children.
• Insist on family meals: Eating together at home will help parents control what their children eat.
Garen added that the Dairy Council of California's meal-planning Web site (www.mealsmat ter.org) contains hundreds of free and easy-to-make, calcium-rich recipe ideas, including Chicken Crunchers. Parents can try this and other palate-pleasing recipes to help their children meet their daily calcium requirements.
Chicken Crunchers
Ingredients:
1 cup all-purpose flour
Salt
Pepper
4 Egg whites
1/2 cup milk
11/2 cups cornflakes
1 cup reduced-fat, shredded cheddar cheese
6 Chicken breast fillets; cut into strips
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Set up three bowls with the following: 1) flour mixed with a pinch of salt and pepper; 2) an egg-wash, made by beating the eggs and milk together; 3) cornflakes mixed with cheese. Coat a 13 x 9-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Dip chicken pieces in flour, then into the egg-wash, then roll in the cheesy-flakes mixture. Bake for 25 minutes, turning halfway through to ensure even browning. Serve with ketchup, BBQ sauce or plain yogurt for dipping, if desired.
Total Preparation Time: 15 to 30 minutes.
The report also states that most children and adolescents are at risk for bone fractures and osteoporosis later in life due to low calcium consumption when they're young. Three servings of low-fat milk, cheese or yogurt, or up to 1,300 milligrams of calcium depending on age, are recommended each day to build strong bones.
"Parents and caregivers often know the importance of calcium, but aren't sure how to incorporate it into their child's diet," said Andrea Garen, a registered dietitian at Dairy Council of California. "Since dairy foods provide 70 percent of calcium in the Western diet, finding ways to include more dairy can make a difference in a child's long-term wellness and bone health."
Garen's suggestions include:
• Find ways to work more dairy into the diet: Offer a child yogurt or cereal with low-fat milk for breakfast, and string cheese and flavored milk as a snack.
• Serve as a child's role model: If good nutrition is important to parents, it will also be important to their children.
• Insist on family meals: Eating together at home will help parents control what their children eat.
Garen added that the Dairy Council of California's meal-planning Web site (www.mealsmat ter.org) contains hundreds of free and easy-to-make, calcium-rich recipe ideas, including Chicken Crunchers. Parents can try this and other palate-pleasing recipes to help their children meet their daily calcium requirements.
Chicken Crunchers
Ingredients:
1 cup all-purpose flour
Salt
Pepper
4 Egg whites
1/2 cup milk
11/2 cups cornflakes
1 cup reduced-fat, shredded cheddar cheese
6 Chicken breast fillets; cut into strips
Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Set up three bowls with the following: 1) flour mixed with a pinch of salt and pepper; 2) an egg-wash, made by beating the eggs and milk together; 3) cornflakes mixed with cheese. Coat a 13 x 9-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Dip chicken pieces in flour, then into the egg-wash, then roll in the cheesy-flakes mixture. Bake for 25 minutes, turning halfway through to ensure even browning. Serve with ketchup, BBQ sauce or plain yogurt for dipping, if desired.
Total Preparation Time: 15 to 30 minutes.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Top 5 New Plants for Your Garden
Spring is coming, and it is time to start thinking about new plants, trees and flowers for your garden. Are you looking to add something to your garden? Read on to learn about plants you can grow.
- Flowers. Flowers are everyone's favorite. From sunflowers to roses to daisies, everyone loves flowers.
Some flowers only bloom for one year; if you want them in your garden next year, you have to re-plant them. Others can bloom for many years to come, provided you care for them.
- Fruit trees. If fruit trees work in your climate zone, congratulations! When getting a fruit tree for your garden, you are getting decor AND you are getting fruit, that you will be able to enjoy. Remember to check if a particular fruit tree can thrive in your climate, and enjoy your tasty harvest!
- Bushes and shrubs. While not everyone gets excited about planting bushes and shrubs, they can add great colors and balance to your garden. Some bushes bloom with great looking flowers. Others have cool looking berries, that make them great decorational plants.
- Ivies and Vines. If you want your plants to grow high, rather then wide, take a look at vines and ivies. You may use them to cover patios and fences, and you can also use them as decoration for your garden.
- Ground covering plants. If you want to cover the ground between your other plants, look into ground covering plants.
Enjoy springtime - it is a fabulous time to add to your garden, adopt a new plant and start some garden work.
- Flowers. Flowers are everyone's favorite. From sunflowers to roses to daisies, everyone loves flowers.
Some flowers only bloom for one year; if you want them in your garden next year, you have to re-plant them. Others can bloom for many years to come, provided you care for them.
- Fruit trees. If fruit trees work in your climate zone, congratulations! When getting a fruit tree for your garden, you are getting decor AND you are getting fruit, that you will be able to enjoy. Remember to check if a particular fruit tree can thrive in your climate, and enjoy your tasty harvest!
- Bushes and shrubs. While not everyone gets excited about planting bushes and shrubs, they can add great colors and balance to your garden. Some bushes bloom with great looking flowers. Others have cool looking berries, that make them great decorational plants.
- Ivies and Vines. If you want your plants to grow high, rather then wide, take a look at vines and ivies. You may use them to cover patios and fences, and you can also use them as decoration for your garden.
- Ground covering plants. If you want to cover the ground between your other plants, look into ground covering plants.
Enjoy springtime - it is a fabulous time to add to your garden, adopt a new plant and start some garden work.
Tomatoes: Apples Of Love
Native to the Andean region of South American and under cultivation in Peru in the sixteenth century, tomatoes (Lycopersicum esculentum) have been grown for thousands of years. The Spanish introduced them to the European cultures. Europeans were not open to trying tomatoes until the end of the sixteenth century, as tomatoes, being part of the nightshade family, were considered poisonous. Later, the French tried them and began to call them “pommes d’amour”, apples of love. They felt that tomatoes carried aphrodisiac qualities. It wasn’t until the 1900’s when the tomato gained popularity in North America.
Scientific research shows the health benefits from this tasty fruit. In recent years, researchers discovered that tomatoes were natural sources of the element lycopene. This antioxidant has been shown in tests to dramatically reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and many cancers, including prostate and colon cancers. Tomatoes are an excellent source of phytochemicals, nutrients, fiber, and contain practically no fat or sodium. They are significant sources of vitamins A, B, and C and a source of iron and potassium. In fact, one medium-sized tomato provides 20 percent of the daily-recommended value of vitamin A and 40 percent of the daily-recommended value of vitamin C.
How To Grow
Tomatoes are very easy to grow from seed. In all, there are more than 100 types of tomatoes to choose from. Though most people believe ripe tomatoes are red, they actually come in many colours, including green, yellow, purple -- even striped. Unless you grow your own, you will not have the opportunity to experience the many varieties. If you don’t have the time, buy tomato plants from garden centres. Look for different varieties as they are becoming more readily available from growers.
Six to eight weeks before transplanting, start tomato seeds by filling a seedling flat with a good quality seedling mixture. Use an excellent quality potting soil from the garden centre to make sure the soil is sterilized and has a high percentage of sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Don’t use garden soil, as it tends to become hard and inhibits proper rooting of seedlings, and it may contain insects, disease, weed seeds, or chemical residue.
Sow seeds no deeper than the thickness of the seed: sprinkle the seeds onto the soil-filled flat and press them down gently. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of fine, horticultural-grade vermiculite to prevent drying. Water just enough to moisten the soil with a fine mist spray such as the sprayer on the kitchen sink or a mister bottle. Keep the seeds evenly moist to ensure the mixture never dries out as both germinating seeds and seedlings are very intolerant of dry soil and will die if they are dry for even a short time. Cover the flat or pot with plastic wrap or a clear plastic bag. Remove the plastic as soon as seedlings emerge.
Tag each container with the date planted and the tomato variety. To promote rapid germination, place the flat on a heated table, top of the refrigerator, or a heat register. Once they germinate and seedlings begin to appear, move them from the heat source into a location with lots of light. They need very high light levels to grow properly: a south-facing window without blinds or curtains is ideal. Use grow lights to enhance growth. Hang the lights 6 inches (15 cm) from plants and leave lights on for 14 hours a day.
Transplant the seedlings into larger, individual containers once the first ‘true’ leaves appear. After transplanting, fertilise once a week with a plant-starter fertilizer such as 10-52-10 at ¼ strength. As an organic gardener, I do not use commercial fertilizer, only fish fertilizer on my transplants. They are strong, healthy plants and are fed weekly until moved outdoors. Harden-off and plant them very deeply where the stems will develop roots helping the plant become established.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need ample quantities of compost or decomposed manure. Mulch and water in dry weather to maintain soil moisture and stave off wilt disease and blossom-end rot. Blossom-end rot is caused by water stress or calcium deficiency. Watering regularly and evenly is the key to preventing blossom-end rot. Never water tomatoes from the top. Water tomatoes from below and water deeply.
In the garden, tomatoes are compatible with chives, onion, parsley, marigold, nasturtium, and carrot. Tomatoes and all members of the Brassica family repel each other and should be kept apart. Plant garlic between tomato plants to protect them from red spider mites. Tomatoes will protect roses against black spot. To make a spray for roses, place tomato leaves in your vegetable juicer, add 4 or 5 pints of water and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Strain and spray on roses when it is not convenient to plant tomatoes as companions. Label and keep any unused spray in the refrigerator.
In the kitchen, tomatoes can be used for salads, soups, juices, sauces, stews, baked dishes, sandwiches, stuffed, grilled, broiled, pasta dishes, and salsa. They combine well with meat, fish, poultry, pasta, rice, as well as other vegetables. Store tomatoes at room temperature. To ripen green tomatoes, place in a brown paper bag with an apple at room temperature for several days. If fresh tomatoes aren’t available, use canned tomatoes or canned tomato juice, which are fine substitutes.
Scientific research shows the health benefits from this tasty fruit. In recent years, researchers discovered that tomatoes were natural sources of the element lycopene. This antioxidant has been shown in tests to dramatically reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and many cancers, including prostate and colon cancers. Tomatoes are an excellent source of phytochemicals, nutrients, fiber, and contain practically no fat or sodium. They are significant sources of vitamins A, B, and C and a source of iron and potassium. In fact, one medium-sized tomato provides 20 percent of the daily-recommended value of vitamin A and 40 percent of the daily-recommended value of vitamin C.
How To Grow
Tomatoes are very easy to grow from seed. In all, there are more than 100 types of tomatoes to choose from. Though most people believe ripe tomatoes are red, they actually come in many colours, including green, yellow, purple -- even striped. Unless you grow your own, you will not have the opportunity to experience the many varieties. If you don’t have the time, buy tomato plants from garden centres. Look for different varieties as they are becoming more readily available from growers.
Six to eight weeks before transplanting, start tomato seeds by filling a seedling flat with a good quality seedling mixture. Use an excellent quality potting soil from the garden centre to make sure the soil is sterilized and has a high percentage of sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Don’t use garden soil, as it tends to become hard and inhibits proper rooting of seedlings, and it may contain insects, disease, weed seeds, or chemical residue.
Sow seeds no deeper than the thickness of the seed: sprinkle the seeds onto the soil-filled flat and press them down gently. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of fine, horticultural-grade vermiculite to prevent drying. Water just enough to moisten the soil with a fine mist spray such as the sprayer on the kitchen sink or a mister bottle. Keep the seeds evenly moist to ensure the mixture never dries out as both germinating seeds and seedlings are very intolerant of dry soil and will die if they are dry for even a short time. Cover the flat or pot with plastic wrap or a clear plastic bag. Remove the plastic as soon as seedlings emerge.
Tag each container with the date planted and the tomato variety. To promote rapid germination, place the flat on a heated table, top of the refrigerator, or a heat register. Once they germinate and seedlings begin to appear, move them from the heat source into a location with lots of light. They need very high light levels to grow properly: a south-facing window without blinds or curtains is ideal. Use grow lights to enhance growth. Hang the lights 6 inches (15 cm) from plants and leave lights on for 14 hours a day.
Transplant the seedlings into larger, individual containers once the first ‘true’ leaves appear. After transplanting, fertilise once a week with a plant-starter fertilizer such as 10-52-10 at ¼ strength. As an organic gardener, I do not use commercial fertilizer, only fish fertilizer on my transplants. They are strong, healthy plants and are fed weekly until moved outdoors. Harden-off and plant them very deeply where the stems will develop roots helping the plant become established.
Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need ample quantities of compost or decomposed manure. Mulch and water in dry weather to maintain soil moisture and stave off wilt disease and blossom-end rot. Blossom-end rot is caused by water stress or calcium deficiency. Watering regularly and evenly is the key to preventing blossom-end rot. Never water tomatoes from the top. Water tomatoes from below and water deeply.
In the garden, tomatoes are compatible with chives, onion, parsley, marigold, nasturtium, and carrot. Tomatoes and all members of the Brassica family repel each other and should be kept apart. Plant garlic between tomato plants to protect them from red spider mites. Tomatoes will protect roses against black spot. To make a spray for roses, place tomato leaves in your vegetable juicer, add 4 or 5 pints of water and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Strain and spray on roses when it is not convenient to plant tomatoes as companions. Label and keep any unused spray in the refrigerator.
In the kitchen, tomatoes can be used for salads, soups, juices, sauces, stews, baked dishes, sandwiches, stuffed, grilled, broiled, pasta dishes, and salsa. They combine well with meat, fish, poultry, pasta, rice, as well as other vegetables. Store tomatoes at room temperature. To ripen green tomatoes, place in a brown paper bag with an apple at room temperature for several days. If fresh tomatoes aren’t available, use canned tomatoes or canned tomato juice, which are fine substitutes.
Tips on Dealing with Slugs and Snails in the Garden
One of the most common problems faced by gardeners is the one of slugs and snails. Even experienced gardeners tear their collective hair out at the destruction these creatures can cause. So I thought I would give you a few tried and tested tips, and some others perhaps not so well known, to help you deal with them – you won’t get rid of them all together, but at least you will be able to keep them under some sort of control!
They may not all work for you – a lot depends on just how bad the problem is where you live – but it is certainly worth trying some if not all of them.
Barriers:
These methods will be more effective against snails than slugs, as slugs live in the ground and can therefore avoid barriers.
On your garden borders, you can use barriers around plants, such as crushed eggshells, grit, bran, or wood-ash or soot. The theory is that slugs and snails are reluctant to cross these materials and will therefore wander off elsewhere to look for their next meal. Make sure you put plenty down without any gaps.
Scatter oat bran around your plants – slugs love it, but if they eat enough, they expand and die!
Petroleum jelly smeared thickly around the rims of pots has a similar deterrent effect.
You can purchase copper tape with an adhesive backing, which you can stick around the pot sides – this gives the snail a small electric shock as it tries to cross.
Traps:
Use beer traps – very effective at dealing with both slugs and snails, and you can buy these from a garden centre. Place the trap, filled with cheap beer, in a hole with the top at soil level. You can also use out of date fruit juice, or even milk just about on the turn. Alternatively, make your own by cutting off about 3-4 inches off the base of a plastic drinks bottle.
After eating your half grapefruit, cut a small hole and place the skin upside down on the soil. Slugs love it and will congregate inside and each day you can collect them up.
Collect all the slugs and snails you can find in the late evening, when they start to become active and drown them in a bucket of heavily salted water. Plain water will not work – they will simply swim to the surface and crawl out! Or, if you know where they hide out, you can gather them up during the day – try looking under logs or bricks, and shrubs, any dark, damp corner.
And what to do with the slugs you’ve collected? If you put live slugs or snails into your compost heap, they will probably stay there, as there is plenty of matter for them to feast on. You can also put the dead ones in there too, those in the beer traps including the beer – but scoop the dead slugs and snails out of the salty water first.
Predators:
For a biological control, you can use nematodes – microscopic parasites that kill the slugs above and below ground. Obtained from organic garden suppliers, you simply mix the powder with water and spray on to the soil using a watering can. This can be effective for around six weeks.
If you are lucky enough to have the space, adopt some chickens or ducks – they just love eating slugs – and you can have some free eggs into the bargain.
Make your garden wildlife friendly, to encourage the natural predators of slugs and snails to come and visit. Dig a pond to encourage frogs and toads; leave out food for hedgehogs; and put up bird feeders. This will not provide an ‘instant fix’ for the problem, but in the long term will give you a healthier garden with fewer pests.
Till next time, happy slug hunting!
They may not all work for you – a lot depends on just how bad the problem is where you live – but it is certainly worth trying some if not all of them.
Barriers:
These methods will be more effective against snails than slugs, as slugs live in the ground and can therefore avoid barriers.
On your garden borders, you can use barriers around plants, such as crushed eggshells, grit, bran, or wood-ash or soot. The theory is that slugs and snails are reluctant to cross these materials and will therefore wander off elsewhere to look for their next meal. Make sure you put plenty down without any gaps.
Scatter oat bran around your plants – slugs love it, but if they eat enough, they expand and die!
Petroleum jelly smeared thickly around the rims of pots has a similar deterrent effect.
You can purchase copper tape with an adhesive backing, which you can stick around the pot sides – this gives the snail a small electric shock as it tries to cross.
Traps:
Use beer traps – very effective at dealing with both slugs and snails, and you can buy these from a garden centre. Place the trap, filled with cheap beer, in a hole with the top at soil level. You can also use out of date fruit juice, or even milk just about on the turn. Alternatively, make your own by cutting off about 3-4 inches off the base of a plastic drinks bottle.
After eating your half grapefruit, cut a small hole and place the skin upside down on the soil. Slugs love it and will congregate inside and each day you can collect them up.
Collect all the slugs and snails you can find in the late evening, when they start to become active and drown them in a bucket of heavily salted water. Plain water will not work – they will simply swim to the surface and crawl out! Or, if you know where they hide out, you can gather them up during the day – try looking under logs or bricks, and shrubs, any dark, damp corner.
And what to do with the slugs you’ve collected? If you put live slugs or snails into your compost heap, they will probably stay there, as there is plenty of matter for them to feast on. You can also put the dead ones in there too, those in the beer traps including the beer – but scoop the dead slugs and snails out of the salty water first.
Predators:
For a biological control, you can use nematodes – microscopic parasites that kill the slugs above and below ground. Obtained from organic garden suppliers, you simply mix the powder with water and spray on to the soil using a watering can. This can be effective for around six weeks.
If you are lucky enough to have the space, adopt some chickens or ducks – they just love eating slugs – and you can have some free eggs into the bargain.
Make your garden wildlife friendly, to encourage the natural predators of slugs and snails to come and visit. Dig a pond to encourage frogs and toads; leave out food for hedgehogs; and put up bird feeders. This will not provide an ‘instant fix’ for the problem, but in the long term will give you a healthier garden with fewer pests.
Till next time, happy slug hunting!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)